Pre-purchase property inspections
As apart of our offered services, we provide professional advice on property and construction by looking, examining and reporting on the areas and features so as to build a description on significant issues, urgent maintenance, weathertightness risks irrespective of evidence of leaks, gradual deterioration so the reader can make an informed decision in a visual, non invasive survey of what is in sight.
If your looking at purchasing a house, get piece of mind that you are getting advice pertaining to the facts and evidence, on the day.
If your looking at Selling your house, or, want general advice, our condition reports will give a scope of your property on the day. Non invasive moisture readings will also be included in the report.
We also offer extras such as floor level reports, with levels given by a zip level.
The Pre-Purchase Checklist
What a builder and building inspector looks for before you buy — Christchurch
Walk the section before you walk the house.
- Which way does the section slope? Water should run away from the house, not towards it.
- Any pooling or damp patches on the ground near the foundation?
- Retaining walls — any visible leaning, cracking, or bulging?
- Paths and driveways — cracked, uneven, or sloping towards the house?
- Is the section exposed to strong prevailing wind, or sheltered? Exposed sites see more wind-driven rain against the cladding.
If there's a subfloor space, ask the agent or owner if you can view it — or ask your inspector to.
- Does it smell musty or damp?
- Any visible mould, rot, or pest damage on the timber framing?
- Is there a ground vapour barrier down (a plastic sheet over the soil)?
- Are the vents clear and unobstructed?
This is where most costly problems hide, especially in homes built between the mid-1990s and mid-2000s.
- What's the cladding material? Plaster/stucco, fibre-cement, weatherboard, brick veneer?
- Is it a "monolithic" cladding (a smooth plaster-look finish) fixed directly to the framing, with no gap behind it? This detail is linked to the majority of NZ's known "leaky home" cases.
- Are there visible cracks, bubbling paint, or dark staining — especially below windows and at joints?
- Does the cladding sit clear of the ground and any decks, or does it look like it's touching or buried?
- What's the roof material, and roughly how old does it look?
- Are there rust spots, sagging areas, or moss/lichen build-up?
- Gutters and downpipes — any visible sagging, leaks, or overflow staining on the fascia?
- In the roof space (if visible): insulation present and even? Any daylight showing through the roofline? Any signs of past leaks (staining on the underside of the roof)?
- Do windows and doors open and close properly, without sticking?
- Any soft or spongy timber around window sills or frames?
- Decks — this is a big one. Is there a deck built over an occupied room below? Enclosed decks over living spaces are one of the highest-risk details in NZ residential construction. Ask specifically whether this deck has ever leaked.
- Ceilings and walls — any bulging, staining, or cracking, particularly near windows, in corners, or below the roofline?
- Do any rooms feel noticeably colder or damper than others?
- Bathroom and laundry — any softness in the floor, discoloured grout, or peeling paint at the base of walls?
- Any strong smell of fresh paint in one isolated area? Sometimes used to mask a recent patch job.
- Hot water cylinder — does it look modern and well-maintained, or old and rusted?
- Power points and switches — do they look outdated, or does anything look like a DIY job?
- Any obvious water stains under sinks or around toilets?
Your home weathertightness risk score
Beyond the visual checklist, six design features determine how likely a home is to develop moisture problems over time — this is the same logic BRANZ and MBIE use in the official risk assessment guidance for residential construction:
- How exposed the site is to wind
- How many storeys the home has
- How well the roof protects the walls at the junction
- How wide the eaves are
- How simple or complex the home's shape is
- Whether there are any decks over living spaces
Want a proper score instead of guessing? Use our free Home Risk Calculator — it walks through these six factors and gives you a plain-English risk rating in under two minutes.
Try the Home Risk Calculator →What this checklist won't tell you
This is deliberately a first-pass tool — not a substitute for a professional inspection. Things a visual walkthrough can't reveal:
- Condition inside the wall cavity
- Whether framing timber is treated or untreated
- Structural adequacy of footings and foundations
- Whether the property has current building consents for any additions
A checklist can only tell you what to look for — it can't give you the evidence-backed detail needed to make an informed decision. A full, independent inspection should always be obtained before you commit to a purchase, so you have a clear, factual picture of the property's condition to base your decision on.
Why BBG Built is different
Most building reports are written by an inspector. Ours are written by an inspector who is also a licensed builder — meaning our understanding of construction runs deeper, and the way we explain a defect is clearer and more practical. Our reports stay independent: we identify and explain issues, we don't quote to fix them.
Book a Pre-Purchase Inspection →This guide is general educational information and does not replace a Residential Property Inspection Report prepared in accordance with NZS 4306:2005. BBG Built Ltd, Christchurch.
How weathertight is the home you're considering?
This tool uses the same six risk factors that BRANZ and MBIE's E2/AS1 guidance use to assess weathertightness risk in New Zealand homes. Answer what you can see or ask the agent — it takes two minutes and gives you a genuine risk indicator, not a guess.
Corner sites, hilltops, and coastal or open sections see more wind-driven rain than sheltered, low-lying sections.
More storeys means more wall area exposed to wind-driven rain, and higher water pressure at ground-floor junctions.
Eaves that project out and over the wall shed water away from the cladding. Parapets and roofs that meet walls with no overhang are higher risk.
Wider eaves overhang the walls further, giving better protection from driven rain. Measured from the wall cladding to the outer edge of the roof overhang.
Simple rectangular shapes with one cladding type are lowest risk. Complex shapes, multiple cladding types, and features like box windows or multi-storey re-entrant corners add junctions where water can get in.
Decks built over living spaces below are a well-documented high-risk detail in NZ homes — water tracking through the deck structure into the rooms underneath.
This calculator applies the weighting logic from MBIE's E2/AS1 External Moisture risk matrix, used industry-wide to assess weathertightness risk in residential construction. It is an educational estimate based on your own observations, not a certified assessment, and does not replace a Residential Property Inspection carried out under NZS 4306:2005.
Booking Process
Cancellation Process
We understand that unexpected circumstances can arise, and you may need to reschedule or cancel your booking. However, please note that any changes must be made at least 24 hours before your scheduled inspection to avoid incurring a fee.
Cancellations made less than 24 hours prior to the appointment will incur a cancellation fee of $195.
To avoid this fee, please ensure you provide at least 24 hours’ notice. If you need to make changes, kindly get in touch with our admin team.